Hotel room interiors. An example of working with additional lighting

Let’s be honest, rooms in Moscow hotels are usually not large. This means that if the photographer needs to work with additional lighting , then questions arise about the size of the light sources, the need for their power and color temperature.

Examples of lighting fixtures for lighting or lighting can be seen at the link . But in the end, each interior photographer decides for himself what to prefer:
🔦softboxes on studio flashes with or without strips,
🔦compact pairs (spotlights) aimed at diffuse reflectors or ↦ diffusers,
🔦diode panels with honeycombs / blinds / strips, a 
🔦light brush in in the form of an on-camera flash with a diffuser in synchronization with the camera, providing optimal illumination of each group of objects.
📸  and the most crucial point is the need to match the color temperature of the backlight with the existing base lighting. 

Hotel.  The job of an interior photographer

Of course, any operation lighting increases shooting time no less than moving furniture, decorating and finishing surfaces.

In this interior shooting, I had to light the upper sleeping area of ​​the first room with additional sources. Why did I do it? Why did you think that additional frames for gluing in a photo editor would be worse? Because this method did not work well in this situation, especially considering that the lamps in the sleeping area were not matched in color temperature with the lower guest area. 

The second number, for all its seeming simplicity, was worked out longer. I moved the furniture to match the frame and tried to achieve lighting so that it would not change the perception of the room, but would create a feeling of comfort. 

Hotel.  The job of an interior photographer

Addition. If I wanted to limit myself to shooting in multiple exposures, then I would get something like this final image:

indoor shooting without lighting

WHAT TO LOOK AT HERE? This image looks comfortable and authentic to reality, but has a significant blockage in the details in the shadows at the bedspread (sachet) of the bed. We see a similar blockage at the chair. And we also see the lack of details in the curtains. Interior photography without lightingIf we just wanted to increase the exposure time, then we would get a file with problematic curtains, bad details in the places we need. the light that hits the right place on the sachet and the chair is no longer a “pure” color, but a cocktail of all re-reflected lighting. It looks like in the “exposed” photo a little higher.

It is almost impossible to fix this without backlighting. Another thing is that this same illumination can be done in different ways in terms of light power, angle of incidence, and so on. In each situation, the interior photographer must solve the problem according to the circumstances.

There is another interesting point that is downright dangerous for this shoot. This is the moment of gradients. Let me explain. The walls are painted in one color. At the same time, the illumination of the walls changes quite smoothly. gradations of brightness and color are close. Considering that modern camera matrices capture brightness changes well and much worse than the subtlety of color transitions, it is important to say the following:

BE CAREFUL WHEN SAVE INjpg.

When saving the final image in the jpg file format, the color component of the image is simplified, and with close shades, this simplification can create a “ladder”. This compression algorithm makes the file lighter, making it more convenient for posting on the Internet. But as a side effect, rough step gradients can occur, which the pros call…

Banding (read the definition of banding).
Banding (posterization or isohelion) is such artifacts on smooth gradients (often on dark ones) in the form of banding (stepped gradients), i.e. the gradient does not smoothly transition from one shade to another, but in waves with visible sharp, to one degree or another, transitions from one shade to another, instead of a smooth color transition.

How to avoid step gradient artifacts?

🎁When working with images in editors, it is safest to do this in 16-bit format, saving, for example, in tiff, and using the most capacious profile like “ProPhoto”. And only at the very end, assign the file the usual profiles (Adobe or sRGB) with conversion to jpg.

Z.Y. Photographed with Panasonic DC-G9 using high-resolution mode (80 MP) with laowa 7.5mm 2.0, Olympus ED 12-40mm f/2.8 Pro Micro 4/3 lenses

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Brief content of the page:

🗹 How can you light up the interior during a photo session? ↴

🗹 Issues with shooting interiors with an exposure for editing. What does overexposure lead to? ↴

🗹 Consequences of saving in jpg with significant compression 

🗹 Banding problem solution 

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